Is there another kitchen object that carries as much baggage as the apron? A whisk and a wooden spoon are, after all, tools to get the job done. But an apron? For years, aprons were commonplace and ...

“I feel like every woman who likes cooking has been given a stack of cutesy vintage aprons with frills,” Heather Cahill, the general manager Pizzeria Beddia in Philly, told me recently. “But man, give ...